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3.27.2011

Does ethnic skin really need sunscreen?

A common misperception among people with ethnic skin tones is that sunscreen is only for whtie skin.  While it is true that darker skin has a lower risk for skin cancer and sun damage, direct exposure to the sun can have a significant impact on ethnic skin -- causing discoloration, premature aging, and even skin cancer.

Skin color is determined mostly by the presence of a substance called melanin. Melanin is what gives skin its pigment. When skin is exposed to the sun, the body stimulates increased melanin production, leading to darkening of natural skin tone.  While many perceive this "bronzing" of skin to be healthy, it is quite the opposite.  The melanin can lead to pathcy discoloration which is often difficult to treat.  More importantly, however, the sun leads to breakdown of the skin's DNA.  These DNA mutations increase ones susceptiblity to skin cancer.  

If DNA damage is not enough to encourage you to wear sunscreen, consider this:  sun damage is the most preventable cause of aging. In ethnic skin, this sun damage manifests as brown spots, deep lines, and sagging of the skin.

We have all heard the cliche "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."  Literally, an ounce (or more) of sunscreen on a daily basis will save you pounds of money and aggravation when you look fabulous later on in life!

For further questions about sunscreen feel free to contact me via "ask the dermatologist." 

3.20.2011

Can laser hair removal actually stimulate hair growth?

The simple answer is yes-- laser can sometimes actually stimulate more hair growth.  A recent article published in The Journal of Dermatologic Surgery reported that widespread use of lasers by a variety of users (nurses, doctors, beauty technician) has led to a surprising yet increasingly common side effect -- stimulation of hair growth.  In fact, this may be as high as 1-10% depending on the type of laser that is used.  In addition, this regrowth is most common among individuals with ethnic skin- particularly South Asians and Mediterranean ethnic groups.

Why does laser actually stimulate more hair?  There are several explanations --  all of which stem from improper use of lasers. 

The most common reasons for failure of laser hair removal reported in Dermatologic Surgery are:

1.  Using inadequate ('too weak') energy on ethnic skin for fear of creating scarring/pigmentation

2.  Not creating a deep enough treatment zone (again for fear of burning/ scarring) which may in turn stimulate new growth  

Fortunately, this side effect is preventable by an experienced physician using the correct laser at the correct depth.  In fact, according to scientific studies, the treatment of increased hair after laser hair removal is actually laser used at proper treatment parameters!

If you have been unfortunate enough to experience increased hair growth after laser treatment, I recommend finding a board certified dermatologist  or other appropriately trained physician to perform your procedure. 

3.09.2011

"doctor, I DEMAND to stick with my ineffective cream"

"But can't I just keep using the cream I have at home?"  I get this question all of the time. Suprisingly, from the patients with the worst skin. A patient will come to me covered with severe acne, scars, and discoloration. I will take my time to formulate a treatment plan that encompasses cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen. Inevitably, as we are about to part, the last question is- "but do I have to stop using what I already have at home?"  As Einstein once said, "the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results."

I never understood why a patient would be so loyal to a cream that clearly is not working. A recent NY Times article sheds light on this. In fact, the less effective a beauty product or treatment, the more likely women are to keep using it!  Researchers recently surveyed 300 women and found they were more loyal to products and treatments when they didn’t work rather than when they did.

The NY Times article theorized that when people don’t feel good about themselves, fear is a more powerful motivator than success. Fears about looking older spur women to keep using the same production -- even when they don’t work. Once they have success however, such as younger-looking skin, their anxiety dissipates, and they stop worrying about it.

Ultimately, we are all creatures of habit.  While I may not be able to convince people to stop buying and using ineffective creams, I can hope that using the correct regimens in combination with their ineffective creams will give them the improvements and satisfaction that brought them to see me in the first place.

http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2007/12/14/wrinkle-cream-not-working-give-me-two-more-jars/#more-157